The Canopy Tower Ecolodge in Soberania National Park, Panama, is the grand recycling project of Raul Arias de Para, businessman/politician turned ecotourist innkeeper. Built as a U.S. military radar installation in the 1960s, the tower has been transformed into a unique lodge, replete with comfortable guest rooms, dining area, library/living room, and, best of all, an observation deck on the roof at treetop level. Canopy-dwelling species that often frustrate birders are easily visible from this vantage point. Birding was surely what he had in mind when Raul developed this facility. All-inclusive, one-week "Green Season" packages for the "budget-minded birder" are advertised on the Canopy Tower website [here]. (The green or "wet" season runs roughly May to December, but the weather is often fine during this season despite the name.) This sounded good to me, an independent traveler. I flew to Panama last September 11 with only a modicum of anxiety and wholly without incident. Panamanian customs and immigration were quick and straightforward. I arrived at the Canopy Tower Saturday afternoon and immediately climbed to the observation deck, where four species of swifts zipped by so closely I could hear the wind whizzing through their wings. In short time I racked up a delightful list of colorful tropical birds: Shinning Honeycreeper, White-necked Jacobin, Collared Aracari, Fulvous-vented Euphonia, Red-lored and Mealy Amazons, and Keel-billed and Chestnut-mandibled Toucans. Then out of nowhere a stunning turquoise-blue bird appeared: Blue Cotinga, the marquee species of Canopy Tower! We were dazzled by it from only a few feet away for several minutes. Quite a welcome to the Canopy Tower. Our guide for the week was Carlos Bethancourt, a native Panamanian who, though young, was experienced and knowledgeable. He was an excellent birder and the perfect host, always working tirelessly to get us the bird. One of
The Canopy Tower Ecolodge in Soberania National Park, Panama, is the grand recycling project of Raul Arias de Para, businessman/politician turned ecotourist innkeeper. Built as a U.S. military radar installation in the 1960s,