By Virginia Rettig
With wonder and excitement, we embarked on a day-long journey to find the elusive Crested Eagle in the heart of the Darién. Our expert Canopy Family guide was Eliécer Rodriguez, whose knowledge and enthusiasm were astounding.
Our day began with a delicious and filling pre-dawn breakfast at Canopy Camp. We had selected rubber boots from a storage area the evening before, so we were ready to tackle the day. Eliécer drove us to the town of Yaviza, at the end of the Pan-American Highway, and the gateway to our adventure. From there, we boarded a small, covered boat for a 40-minute ride on the Chucunaque River to the town of El Real. The sun was rising as we arrived and transferred to the back of a pick-up truck, embarking on a 30-minute journey to the village where we would begin our hike.
We passed locals on foot and horse as we rode on the slightly bumpy gravel road. Suddenly, Eliécer tapped urgently on the hood of the truck cab to signal the driver to stop. He jumped out of the back of the truck and was broadly smiling as he eagerly motioned for us all to get out and see what he was looking at. It was an adult Harpy Eagle! The bird, estimated to be a female due to her incredibly large size, and near 10 years old, perched fiercely on a huge Cuipo Tree. We were thrilled! She surveyed the land and preened as we oohed and aahed. As we watched, a Gray-lined Hawk came out of nowhere and side-swiped her. She briefly hunched her wings but otherwise was not bothered by the other raptor. We could have watched her for much longer, but we had to continue our quest of the day.
We resumed our journey, the excitement of the unexpected encounter still buzzing in our hearts, and soon we reached Pijibasal. The village, with its wooden slat board homes elevated above the ground, was rustic and charming. The people of this area are of the Emberá tribe. There, we met our local guide, Sadan Contreras, who, along with Eliécer, led our group of four through the dense forest. Villagers Ulises and Edison, who were incredibly friendly, accompanied us, carrying our rubber boots and provisions. A young woman, Denis, rode her horse to assist with water crossings.
The hike was both challenging and exhilarating, stretching nearly 2-½ hours through forest and small banana plantings, often uphill. Portions of the trail had been freshly cleared for us, a testament to the dedication of the locals to provide access to visitors. We crossed three water bodies, opting to forego rubber boots to ride the sturdy black horse, aptly named Paima, which means ‘black” in Emberá, each time. The pebble-strewn Pirre River, its clear waters shimmering under the sunlight, was particularly lovely.
Despite the heat and humidity, our pace was manageable, and we made stops whenever someone needed a break. Around mid-morning, we enjoyed a delicious sandwich provided by Canopy Family, along with plenty of refreshing drinks to keep us hydrated.
As we reached the densest part of the forest, Sadan informed us we were just 10 minutes away from our destination. Our anticipation grew with every step, the culmination of six hours of travel within reach. We finally arrived at a narrow cut trail that led us to an enormous stick-filled nest. Through an opening in the forest, we could easily see the nest tree, tantalizingly close yet devoid of its majestic inhabitant!
We waited in eager anticipation, our eyes scanning the trees for any sign of movement, but the forest was dense. Just as we started to worry, Sadan and Eliécer heard the eagle’s call nearby, filling us with renewed hope. Sadan instructed us to wait by the nest while he ventured deeper into the forest. Twenty minutes passed and then we received word that he had found the eagle! We quickly hiked (scampered!) to him, our hearts pounding with excitement and trepidation.
To our immense joy, Sadan had found the eagle on a previously unknown perch, allowing us a rare and breathtaking view. Known for its elusive nature and silent demeanor, the bird surveyed her domain with an air of grace and regality. We watched in awed silence, our emotions a mix of tears and joy, as we marveled at the beauty of this rare avian treasure.
After about 20 minutes of picture-taking, videoing, and soaking in the sight of her, we reversed course and headed back to Pijibasal. As we walked the mostly downhill trek, Eliécer told us that because we were the first group outside of the tribe to be shown the eagle, Sadan was asking us to name her. Our group fell silent as we were incredibly humbled and shocked at this twist to the day.
We returned to the village and lunched on our well-earned Canopy-provided meal. Many of the local women laid out their beautiful creations of baskets, animal masks, jewelry, and other crafts for us to peruse and purchase. Having had a similar experience when we traveled with Canopy Family to the Darién in 2018, we were excited for this long-awaited shopping trip that allowed us to take home memories of these wonderful people while hopefully helping them economically.
As we packed our treasures, we were mindful that we had one remaining task – naming the Crested Eagle. The bird was female, and we felt strongly, as women ourselves, that it would be appropriate to honor her role in Nature as a provider. Through the day, we had learned that Sadan had found this eagle and her nest a year earlier and it had taken many conversations with the villagers to agree to allow outsiders to visit. We asked Eliécer if there was a word in the Emberá language for the concept of Mother Nature. He asked Sadan who responded with “Mumamá” – Mother. Upon hearing it, we immediately knew it was perfect. We asked Sadan if it would be acceptable to name the bird Mumamá. The nearby villagers, including many women, smiled. They approved, and we all cheered her name. We are humbled by and honor the people of Pijibasal, and we hope Mumamá thrives for years in the land she shares with the Emberá people.
It is through carefully curated relationships with the people who live on these important lands that Canopy Family can escort nature lovers to such incredibly special places. Our journey to find the Crested Eagle in the Darién, though challenging, was an unforgettable and very safe adventure. Under the expert guidance of Eliécer and Sadan, we experienced the thrill of discovery and the joy of witnessing one of the world’s most majestic creatures in its natural habitat. We have trusted the Canopy Family for 8 years and visited all their properties. We will continue to do so as long as we are able. Viva Panamá!